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Kashubia:There are
many beautiful, important and orginal places in the World. They can be a magent
to tourists, scenes of stormy incidents, literary back drops and an inspiration
to artist. But few deserve to be called ‘magical’ as much as my local fatherland, Kashubia. The magic
ofthe Kasubian region is in its scenery, quite exceptional in Europe; in its
sprint, the ganius loci, created by the sea, by fortune, by its inhabitants; in
its mistery and uniqueness. It is also in the antiquity and stability of its
situation, its culture and its attitudes. ![]() To vivitors to kashubio, the charm
of the scenery and the tourist attractions are so obvious, that they eclipse
other aspects of the region. Which is not surprising, because where else, in
such a relativel small area, have nature and history placed so many wonders? We
have kilometers of sand beaches with the Sopot spa, sheer cliffs, the Hel spit stretching for over thirty
kilometers with beautiful fishing villages, and the sand dunes of Łeba like a
piece of the Sahara transported to the
Baltic coast. As if this were not enought, there are also hundreds of lakes,
large ones like the Raduńskie or the Wdzydze, and very small ones concealed in
the forest. And there are rivers, which in many places, like Radunia gorge,
remind one of mountain streams. It is not therefore surprising that
a part of the Pojezierze region is called the ‘Kashubian Switzerland’. Near
Kartuzy and Kościerzyna, where there are over four hundred lakes, there are
also attractive uplands, dominated by the Wieżyca hill, with some ski lifts. In
the south there are forests and mysterious marshes, and everywhere, there are
rare plants and animals, ancient trees and uninhabited areas. This is why, in
Kashub songs which are still sung on ever possible ocasion, there is so much
about the sea, lakes and forests. But Kashubia is not just wather,
sadn and forests. Few people still remember that one of the most beautiful and
most important Polish towns lies here. Yes, Gdansk is the capital of the
region. Gunter Grass, the great German writer who values his Kashub roots,
writes in ‘The Tin Drum’ about how valuable its Kashub setting has been to the
history of Gdansk. It is worth remembering this when visiting the town situated
on the banks of the Motława. When the publishers of this
beautiful album came to me with the proposal of writing an introduction, it
occurred to me that it might be worth trying to write a few words which
would not be a hackneyed commentary on
beautiful scenery and pictures of historical monuments. Photographs speak for
themselves, although they are no substitute for the orginal. As nature gave Kashubia beauty, so
history and the people making it, left az their heri-tage the secret of survival.
Every self respecting tourist visiting this region should start his excursion
at Odry in the south or in Wensiory in Central Kashubia. There he will find
ancient traces of the history and culture of the aboringinal inhabitants –
stone circles, which according to some
still possess an energy which transmits strength and heals like the hands of a
bio-energy healer. Scientists still do not know the origins of the Kashub
culture. There are many theories about the origins of the name ‘Kaszuby’, and
the place where the ashub culture and language originated is also not known,
although most researchers point to western Pomerania. A dispute about the
Kashub language has been going on for years. Some consider it a language,
others a dialect. The Kashub elite have no dubts on this score, to them
Kashubian is a language with its own grammar and spelling. Kashubian-Polish
dictionaries and language text books have been written. There are primary and
secondary schools which teach in Kashubian, and in 1987, for John Paul Il`s
visit to Gdansk the ‘Weijmk ze Swiętech Pismion Nowego Testamentu’ or bible in
Kashubian was published. As a resuly, Kashubian is incereasingly heard in
churches. The Kashubian language is special
not just because it has maintained elements of old Slavic mixed with Polish and
some German words. Anyone who has travelled from the Bory Tucholskie to Hel is
sure to have noticed how the Kashubian
vernacular differs, with almost eighty variations being recorded. There are
many Kashubian ethnic groups. In Tadeusz Bolduan`s ‘Baedeker`he states “They
vary in language cultural and social charakteristics, habits and customs. The
north is clearly different, inhabited
by the Rybnik (Reboce). The Hel peninsula and the nearby coastline is inhabited
by the Belaki (Beloce) and the Dobrolaki (Dobroloce). South of Wejherowo one
finds the Lesaki (Lesoce), near Kościerzyna the Korkacze (Korocze), in the
Wdzydze region the Łyczaki (Łyczoce) and further on the Gochy, Zaboracy and
Lasacy.” Obstinacy is a characteristic of all
Kashubs. Thanks to this they have succeeded in maintaining not only their
language, but also their particular culture and customs. The whole of Poland heard about their protests against
the new law forbidding the production and sale of snuff. An apparently minor
matter quickly became a serious political problem, showing how carefully one
must tread with the customs of ethnic and cultural minority groups. On that
occasion the Kashubs showed that their proverbial obstinacy in holding on to
their rights and habits is not dead. This obstinacy was a condition of
survival over the centuries, as history has not been gentle with this region.
Gunter Grass wrote in ‘The Tin Drum’: “That is how it is with the Kashubs...
they always catch it ... you can`t move the Kashubs anywhere, they always have
to be hear and make themself available to be beaten, because we are not Polish
anought and not German enought, because if someone is Kashub, it is
insufficient for both Poles and Germans.” In our part of Europe, so heavily
experienced in wars, invasions and migrations, the Kashubs are among the few
who can say: we have always been here and have maintained our identity! Loyalty
to one`s own principles, custorms and culture, as well as language, has enabled
Kashubs to grow strong and deep roots and to survive historical storms. Perhaps this is why in Kashubia no
one scorns, as they do in other places, the regional culture. It has not been
confined to outdoor museums or superseded by mass culture. It lives on, away
from big cities, even experiencing a renaissance in recent years. Carvings and
ceramies from Chmielno, famous Kashub poetry and music, horn snuff boxes and
musical instruments, all this can be found in cottages, Gdansk collectors`
homes and on market stalls. Poor soils, sand and stony (it is
often said that the Kashub soil grows stones) and work on the water have taught
the natives hardiness and strict realism. Everyday hardships are accompanied
here by faith, simple and deep at the
same time. The imagination of the Kashubs was once peopled by ‘purteks’
(devils)’stolemams’ (giants) and a special role was played by ‘Smętek’, the
sprint of this region, immortalised by Żeromski. Proof of the existence of
these forces are erratic boulders almost each of which has its own legend.
Nowadays the Kashubs are a mainstay of Catholicism, and their attachment to the
Church has also beed a sing of their
Polishness. Kashub religiousness has its material expression: countless
roadside chapels, churches, including a real architectural jewel, the Cistercian
church in the Kartuzy hills whit its famous coffin roof or the historical
Wejherowo Calvary representation frequently visited by pilgrims from all parts
of Kashubia. It is not surprising therefore that one of the kashub hymns ends
with the words “We`re on God`s side”. The Kashub culture survived over the
centuries against all the odds. Being a borderland in the cultural, national,
linguistic and religious sense and being strongly pressured by Germany and
Protestantism, it nevertheless maintained its essence into the 20th
centurry. Later on, within the Polish Republic, it had to defend its ethnic
identity from attacks by all those who considered all variety and
differences within the national culthre
were suspicious and superflous. The first tragedy occurred during the first
months of the II Eorld War, when the nazis murdered thousands of Pomeranian
intellectuals in Piaśnica. The Kashubs also had a hard time during the
communist period, but again they succeeded in defending their identity, in
contrast to the Mazurians or the Slowinces from the nerby Pobrzeże. These experiences encourage one to
hope that they will also defend their identity
in this period of the ‘global village’,
a period of progressive uniformity of culture and widespread
homogeneity. Because the Kashubs are like the sea from which they have earned
their livelihood over the ages – indestructible. |
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